CATS

You will know you have chosen correctly when your cat delightedly purrs and snuggles down for the night… and day… and night, dreaming happy dreams about chasing mice!

If you intend to take your cat to the vet or in a car at any point then you really do need a cat carrier. We do get asked if it is possible to take your cat on a harness and lead in the car, but unless your cat is used to both, putting one on him before getting in the car to go to the vet could turn a simple car ride into a stressful experience for everyone.

A cat carrier is a safe, secure place for your cat to be during transport. This is not just while driving, but while you are at the vet too – when you are sat in the waiting room surrounded by strange dogs the last thing your cat wants to do is be sociable! When choosing a carrier, be sure to pick the right size for your cat. You want to make sure that he or she can stand up and turn around in the carrier and also stretch out while lying down (especially if you're traveling a long distance). However, you also want to make sure that the carrier is not too big. Cats feel more secure in smaller areas. Bigger is not better in this case.

Many cats will do just about anything to avoid going in. To avoid this aversion to being boxed, you need to get your cat used to the idea of being in the carrier. This is especially important in case of an emergency when time is of the essence. Alternatively if you do have an incredibly stubborn cat, try one of our top loading carriers – that way you can quickly pop the unsuspecting traveler in through the lid and close it before he realises what has happened! Ideally, your cat's experience with her cat carrier will be a pleasant one. Some cats become so accustomed to their little enclosure that they sleep in it or use it during their playtime – leave it out in the house normally with some toys or treats inside and you may well find yours moves in!

If you have a cat, it is convenient to have a cat flap so that your cat can come and go as it pleases. A cat flap is easy to install and prevents you from having to let the cat out and open the door in the morning for him to come in. The catflap fits into your door or wall and provides your cat with their own entrance door – great to stop you having to get up and down all day and night to let them in or out!

Cats that go out often can run into trouble with other cats, they get hungry or cold. You want to be sure that your cat knows that it can come into the house any time it needs to. Cat flaps not only allow your cat to come into the house when they want, but also can let it go out when it chooses too.

Look out for catflaps with multi way locking – this allows you to keep your cat in (or out) should you need to by preventing it working in one or both directions via the turn of a dial. Magnetic and infrared cat flaps are a further enhancement of the standard catflaps where your cat wears a little automatic unlocking “key” on their collar so that only they can let themselves into your house!

It is important to always treat all animals in the household whether you can see fleas or not.

Flea eggs laid around your home can survive in the carpet for up to 9 months. At any point within this time they can hatch and jump on your pet - this does not mean that your flea treatment is not working but just that there are new fleas on which it must take effect. Given time there will be no new fleas to hatch out which will significantly reduce these breakouts.

Scratching is one of your cat's most ingrained instincts. Keep a scratching post near where the cat usually sleeps or, if he has already picked out a corner of your sofa, keep it next to that chosen spot. You may need to train your cat to use his scratching post. Do not pick him up and put his paws on the scratching post (that will only make him want to avoid it). Make the scratching post appealing to him: rub catnip on it or mist it with catnip spray or put treats on the very top.

A few cats don't like scratching on a vertical post, but will scratch willingly on a flat scratching pad. Sometimes changing to a scratching post that is covered with sisal rope or a different texture will kindle his interest in the post, as well. To most cats, the sturdiness and stability of a scratching post matters even more than the material of construction. Cats put a lot of energy into sharpening their claws, and they can't scratch with gusto if the post won't stay upright. A wood or sisal post must be attached to a sturdy base that won't wobble when the cat's scratching. A wobbly post may also be nailed onto a larger base for more stability. Cardboard posts that lie flat on the floor should be large enough for the cat to stand on them and scratch at the same time.